WARP DYEING - AN OVERVIEW OF IKAT, ONE OF THE PATTERNING TECHNIQUES: EXAMPLES IN MUSEUMS

Abstract

Woven fabrics are patterned after weaving or during the weaving process. Ikat fabrics are the technique of patterning the yarns before the weaving process begins. Only the warp, weft or both warp and weft yarns are dyed and patterned in the preparation phase before weaving. The edges or interiors of the motifs that we do not want to dye are tied with thread according to the pattern or covered with waxing technique and the exposed parts are dyed. The starting date and origin of ikat fabrics are not certain. But in general, the dyeing technique is to tie and dye by wrapping with yarn. Today, it is still being produced as a craft (traditional hand production) in countries such as Uzbekistan, Indonesia, India, Turkey and Iran. Within the scope of the study, the ikat technique was defined and its history was researched in different museums around the world. Verbal interviews and research were conducted in ikat workshops in Turkey and Iran, where on-site research was possible. Library research was conducted on the ikats of Uzbekistan and Indonesia, and the differences and similarities used in ikat patterning and dyeing and the binding-dyeing technique of these countries were discussed. Thus, a general perspective on the ikat technique was provided. In the continuation of the study, application types and dyeing techniques of ikat technique are discussed. In this framework, warp ikat, weft ikat, warp-weft ikat and velvet ikat techniques were examined with four different applications.  During the researches, it was seen that warp ikat is applied more frequently. Other applications are practiced less because they consist of difficult and time-consuming stages.